10 Things to Consider When Buying VW engine parts
10 Tips For Buying A Vintage VW Beetle - Dune Buggy Warehouse
At DuneBuggyWarehouse.com we love Volkswagen Beetles. We have many VW Beetle parts in stock for early VW Bugs, late VW Bugs and Volkswagen Super Beetles.
With competitive price and timely delivery, Yunqi Automobile Parts sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.
According to Car and Driver 21 million Vintage VW Beetles were sold worldwide before the first major modernization in . Many are still around today in some form, whether they are a stock VW Bug, Dune Buggy, Sand Rail, VW Trike or kit car.
People love the simplicity of air-cooled VW Type 1s. We always hear stories about families having multiple bugs and their trials and tribulations.
While VW Beetles are fairly simple in many aspects a bad Bug can give you a big headache. As prices for vintage VW Beetles continue to rise and the cars continue to age it is becoming more and more important to choose a car wisely.
A bad choice can lead to many long term fixes, high costs and dissatisfaction. We have seen many heartbroken customers over the years who find out that the VW Beetle they loved is doing their budget more harm than good. A car is part fun, but also part investment. Take a look at these ten buying tips for Volkswagen Bugs. We hope we can make your Vintage Vdub buying experience an excellent one that leads to years of enjoyment in your new air-cooled ride.
1. Consider What Type of Car You Want: Volkswagen Beetles come in all types of variations. They can be as original as the day they came out of the factory or completely unrecognizable. Consider if you want an original ride for that nostalgic feel, a lowered cruiser for weekend shows, a baja bug for on and off road adventures, a hot rod weekend warrior bug or even a dune buggy. Once you decide what style of bug you want consider looking for one that someone else has built in that style. Typically it is much cheaper to buy a car that has many of the parts you want already on it. The downside is that you may not like everything done to it. However choosing a nicely done car typically can save thousands in repair or customization work if you can afford the initial purchase price. Small changes that make it suit your tastes after the buy are typically much cheaper.
2. Decide If You Want an Early or Late Style VW Bug: The subject of early versus late polarizes many Vintage VW Beetle Owners. Again it comes down to what you want out of your Beetle. Many people love the look and lines of early VW Type 1s. The Split Window and Oval Window Beetles, which were made up until , have become serious collector cars and the prices have been going up. These early cars are ideal for someone who wants maximum value from a restoration, but be warned some parts are very expensive if they are missing or broken. Early "Big Window" VW Beetles still have a classic look and a great utilitarian vintage feel. These cars are also a great choice for restoration or customization as their value continues to rise. The downside of these early VW beetles up to is that parts are a little more difficult to come by and there is less aftermarket support for the original engines. For off roaders early beetle chassis parts are desirable because their king and link pin front ends are known to take some serious abuse. Swing axle transmissions installed in US VW bugs until are also popular for drag racers. Beetles were continually going through transitions from year to year. Model years from through saw some continual changes as Volkswagen update the beetle to new government and technology standards. was the first year for a ball joint front end and featured a one year only CC engine. was the first year for 12 Volt power and the engine. It also featured a one year only body styling that blended beetles from years past and the new direction of VW bugs. VW Beetles are one of the most sought after cars for many air-cooled VW enthusiasts. was the first year for the padded dash and four lug wheels. was the first year for independent rear suspension, making them and later years a great choice for a baja bug. The famous CC Dual Port VW Type 1 Engine came out in making the later cars the most powerful from the factory. was also the first year for the Super Beetle. Later standard Beetles and Super Beetles featured the most built in comforts in both the interior and chassis making them nicer for long trips and even around town cruising compared to earlier VW Beetles. Super Beetles featured a Macpherson Strut front end that made them less ideal for off road use, but better for road racing applications. Fuel injection was also installed at the factory in . The factory L-Jet Fuel Injection is great if it is in good working order, but can be difficult to repair. It is also not ideal for performance applications.
3. Examine The Beetle for Rust: Like any vintage car, Volkswagen Beetles are prone to rusting. From the factory rust proofing was not great and many factory drain holes for water can get plugged over time causing inner body cavities to being rusting. Check the floor pans for rust and look beneath the battery tray on the passenger side rear of the vehicle. Other common rust areas include beneath the front spare tire well, front and rear kick panel sections, door posts and the rear parcel shelf. Always remember if you can see rust on the vehicle there is much more beneath the surface. Repairing extensive rust on a VW bug can often surpass the value of the car. We recommend check dry desert states or states in the south for the most rust free cars. Also check local collectors. You never know what someone has in storage!
Want more information on VW engine parts? Feel free to contact us.
4. Check The Condition of The VW Bug's Engine: VW Beetle engines are simple, but rebuilds still are not cheap. Oil leaks are a common problem. A leak from a valve cover or sump plate is an easy fix. A leak from a type 1 engine oil cooler, pushrod tubes or case halves on the other hand will likely require removal of the engine and other parts. Oil pressure can also be an issue for a worn out engine. If the oil light is coming on during idle while you test drive the car that means oil pressure is falling below the VW factory minimum of 5 PSI, which is a bad sign for the engine's longevity. Crankshaft endplay is another sign of excessive wear. Grab the crank pulley and give it a tug and shove. If it moves noticeably at all the endplay is likely out of the .003" - .005" spec. A compression test is another good check to perform on a bug before buying it. Low compression across one or all cylinders may indicate warped heads or a crack bleeding off cylinder pressure. Even if you are planning to swap engines this is all fodder for negotiation.
5. Check The Condition of the VW Bug's Transmission & Drivetrain: VW Beetle transmissions are another expensive item on your prospective car to fix. Always test drive the car if you can. Shift it through all gears under high and low loads. See if it pops out of gear or grinds between shifts. Some of these issues can be due to shifter alignment, but they can also be related to a deeper transmission issue, which can get expensive. The early and late VW beetles have different transaxle setups. Swing axle transmissions have two inner boots and oil seals at each wheel. Check the rear drums and axle tubes for signs of leaking fluid. Repair of these parts is not too difficult but it is a dirty job. Replacing rear axle seals will require an impact wrench. VW Beetles after and all Super Beetles had independent rear suspension transaxles. It's always a good idea to listen for clicking at the CV joints while on a test drive. The clutch on any bug is also a good thing to check, if the pedal has a high release on takeoff, it may need adjustment. If there is very little adjustment left on the clutch cable, you may need to replace a clutch in the near future, which requires removing the engine. The biggest cost is a transmission rebuild and most of the other parts require more labor than cash to repair.
6. Does The Bug Stop?: It sounds silly but it's a legitimate concern when buying any old car. VW Beetles were fitted with four wheel drum brakes for almost all of their production years. These brakes can work well as long as they are in good condition and are properly adjusted. If you are driving a drum brake beetle and the emergency brake doesn't work or the pedal sinks very low before the car stops the drum brakes likely need serviced or adjusted. If the car shutters to a stop your drums may be out of round or just out of adjustment. If the pedal bleeds down or pumps up that my indicated a leak or air in the brake system. A nice upgrade for a VW Bug is disc brakes and many owners have already installed them. No matter which braking setup the car you are looking at has make sure it is safe. Old rubber hoses and corroded steel brake lines can wreak havoc on a brake system. Aged brake hoses can close up and prevent fluid from flowing to your calipers or wheel cylinders. If the steel brake line that leads from the front to the rear is rusted out get ready for a several hour job. Again rust is your enemy!
7. Check Out the VW Bug's Front End: The front axle of a standard VW beetle is a modular unit that has a fairly simple design. But, when it wears out it can be a big job to replace different components. Early VW Beetles up to have a King and Link Pin Front End. This front end is fairly simple and strong, but if you find your king pins are worn out it will require a specialist to repair them. The job requires pressing the spindle assemblies apart and replacing king pin bushings with new units, which must be reamed to fit. Link pins are an easier job, but must be shimmed correctly to give the correct camber. Ball joint front beams have four ball joints in them, two upper and two lower. If they are worn out, you will need a press to replace them. Often they are an extremely tight fit, so it's not a bad idea to have a good shop press the old out and the new in. Tie rods are a fairly simple replacement and that job can be done in the driveway. Steering box play is another common problem. Sometimes sellers will say the play can be adjusted out, but that is not always the case depending on wear. Super Beetle front ends had either a steering box ( - ) or a rack and pinion (-). Common wear items on both of those front ends are suspension bushings, steering universal shafts and strut cartridges. Keep in mind that steering boxes are available in the aftermarket for Super Beetles, but late model rack and pinions have not been reproduced.
8. Do You Want to Start With a Modified Beetle or an Original Beetle?: Beetles come in all forms, as discussed above. Your end vision for your car should determine your possible candidates for purchase. If you are going for a stock look, don't buy a modified bug or Baja bug. It is typically a ton of work to un baja a Beetle! If you want to keep all of your bugs classic trim and factory accessories don't look at a Cal-Look car, where many trim pieces are removed or shaved off. If you want an off road bug, consider the fact that buying a baja project could save money on aftermarket body panels and shipping. If you want a Cal-Look Car, check out some enthusiast marketplaces for one. There are also communities of racers for asphalt and sand drag cars. If you are interested in a kit car, look at several that are already done. We don't want to limit you to anything in particular, but remember that finding something close to your vision may make your life easier. That is as long as the VW bug is in good shape. We prefer to start with fairly good condition original cars purely because we don't have to undo other peoples modifications, but sometimes there are some well done customs at awesome deals.
9. What Should I Pay for a VW Beetle?: Like many other classic cars the value of VW Beetles has risen. They are no longer $50 cars, but most are still relatively cheap by classic car standards. In truth prices for VW bugs are all over the map. Early Split window beetles ( - ) tend to be highly collectable and expensive. A cheap project goes for $20K - $35K. A nice running and driving example of a Split Window VW Beetle can be upwards of $50K. Oval Window Bugs ( - ) are also very collectable. Typically a project Oval Window Beetle will cost $6K - $10K on an enthusiast website. A nice running and driving Oval will be $20K -$30K depending on year model and options. Early big window VW bugs (-) are the most affordable of early style VW Beetles. A project can be had for $1K - $4K. A driver will cost $5k-$14K depending on quality and the style of car. The model year has its own classification to many VW enthusiasts. VW Beetles tend to be more valuable than its earlier predecessors. A VW Project will cost between $ and $. A driver will cost $6K - $25K depending on the quality of the car. Late model Beetles ( - ) and Super Beetles (-) are the most affordable of the bunch. A project can be had for $500 to $2k. A driver can be had for $ - $15K depending on condition.
10. How Do I Know if This is the VW Beetle for Me?: If you have checked over your prospective bug and it passes all or most of these tests, maybe it's the one. If you are in doubt or feel rushed to make the buy then wait. Remember that the buyer has the power when car shopping no matter what your seller tells you. Also remember that no matter how in love you are with a particular VW Bug, if it doesn't pass your tests there's another that will. For us the biggest deal breaker is rust. We can deal with mechanical and chassis issues, but rust repair can be extremely costly and time consuming. If the budget is tight, which it usually is, than we would rather have a car with little to no rust and some mechanical problems rather than the opposite.
We hope this guide helps you better select your Volkswagen Beetle. If you have any questions on buying or selling your bug please contact us. If you need any VW Beetle Parts, whether they are aftermarket, stock replacement or performance check out DuneBuggyWarehouse.com or give us a call and we will do our best to get you what you need fast and at a great price.
For more information, please visit VW suspension parts.
Which engine rebuild kit should I buy? - TheSamba.com
Have you rebuilt a motor before? Do you have Wilson's book to guide you through the tear down, inspection of parts, and the rebuild? Its a must. There are also alot of threads here on rebuilding motors, part selections and snags hit along the way so do your homework and get the best parts you can afford. I like using Mahle dished pistons on buses for a lower compresion ratio but you could get flat tops and get the extra volume somewhere else like the head chamber or use barrell shims. Dished pistons have gone up in price and are a little harder to find these days. Good luck. Forget about a "kit".
First thing is get and study Tom Wilson's engine building book. If you don't spend the $17 for it you will end up throwing a lot more money than that in the dumpster.
Inspect all the parts per the books info.
Do some serious homework and find a quality machine shop. I wouldn't even suggest to you to use a machine shop unless it is VW specific. There are too many VW specific only items and tricks that only a VW builder knows about.
SG's advice about having the machine shop supply the rod and main bearings is good.
Here is what you will need a quality VW shop and a pro builder for-
-Pro inspection of the case for cracks. You won't be able to see or find them yourself if they exist.
-Tank the case to clean it. (that's just the starter, you will need to finish cleaning it).
-Determine if case line boring is needed.
-Inspect the crank. If it's OK, probably have it polished.
-Machine the case for full flow. You will at least want to put a filter on it.
-Check, straighten, and resize the rods. Have them weight balanced.
-Possibly (probably) have the case decks faced.
-Depending on what your case is, and it's condition, you might need stud inserts installed. And deep stud #3.
-Maybe face the flywheel.
-Have the shop handle a balance job of the rotating group. Crank, flywheel, crank pulley, pressure plate.
-Quality rebuild of the heads. Don't skimp. Guides, new exhaust valves, tripple angle valve job, machine barrel mounting surface. And be sure and have them CC the chambers. I also have my head man flycut and semi-hemi machine the chambers. And use good used German heads. You can get new poor quality heads for the cost of a good rebuild job but don't do it.
That's mainly what you will need a shop to do. Then you can determine what other individual parts you will need. A "kit" won't do it.
When you get your new cylinders and pistons check the pistons for accurate weight balance. Possibly have the shop do it. Or you very accurately do it. They might need balancing. My last set was way far out of balance.
Determine all your build criteria and choose the type of cam you want. Cam and lifter coordination is very important. Don't reuse your old cam, lifters, and oil pump. 99% chance they are worn out. My choice was an Engle mild bus cam and reground and parkerized German lifters.
If you stick with both Wilson and Bentley you'll be in good shape. bugger101 wrote: so you could get a rebuild kit that is made for a beetle and put it in the bus engine?
Back to basics.
-Bug and bus engines are the same engine except 3 threaded holes for mounting in a bus. Not needed in a bug.
-Some bug engines can be drilled and tapped for the 3 mounting holes. Some can't but the simple cheap adapter can be used instead.
-Later replacement engine cases are universal cases and have the holes and can be used in either bugs or busses.
-40 year old bugs are very apt to have replacement universal cases or else replacement rebuilt engines with the bus mounting holes.
Same parts are used to rebuild either a bug or bus since it is the same engine. As mentioned before, when rebuilding an engine forget about a "kit". You buy individual parts as needed. When you go to the market to buy groceries for dinner do you buy a dinner kit?
If you pull a complete engine out of a bug to just put in a bus you will also need to change the front tin to a bus tin. It's just a simple external item and has nothing to do with the basic engine. tumadre776 wrote: I ordered one from kustom1 and all of the parts were wrong. I sent it back 2 weeks ago. and besides charging me a 20% restocking fee, they will not answer the phones or and still have not given me my money back.
So let me get this straight. You have a late model bus with a type 4 pancake motor (Most importantly you failed to mention this detail but I can see it in your profile picture). You went online to Kustom 1 and ordered a engine kit and you assumed this engine kit was going to fit your type 4 cc pancake motor. Yes, all the parts are wrong for a late model bus. Anyone with a minimal amount of VW knowledge knows that these two motors are completely different. You are so quick to bash Kustom 1 in the forum but conveniently omitted important details that keep you from looking stupid. You did not get charged any restock fee. Saying restocked you 20% is a lie. Yes, you ate the shipping cost. All parts were refunded except the shipping without a restock fee. ($553 on 12/10) I offered to get you type 4 parts and you said no. We are open 10-6 pst. which means you can’t call until 1pm est.
As for the rest of this blog about engine kits. So Cal customers are so spoiled. We have every machine shop and vw parts store at our disposal. Parts are cheaper and so is the machine work. Rebuilding a crank, rods and balancing can get expensive when you are out of California. Yes, it sounds great to get everything from the local machine shop but parts can cost up to double the price of a parts store or in kit form. Most of the other companies offering engine kits have china pistons and cast or china cranks. They say 100% new but don't disclose the origin or the quality of the parts. You may think you can reuse some old parts but for the most part, when you dismantle an old VW motor, the majority of parts need be replaced or rebuilt and machine work needs to be done. The reason main bearings are made optional is 50% of the people have not even taken the motor apart and do not know the line bore of the case. You can’t sell main bearings if the customer is guessing the size. If you do know the size of your line bore, the option for main bearings are listed in the engine kit. As for camshafts, Kustom 1 offers about 50 different grinds. From stock to wild. You just pick a camshaft after you are done with you engine kit. It’s not rocket science. I have a 71 camper bus. I built a with dual 40idfs, dms 69 crank, stock flywheel , 110 cam, balanced, full flowed, with a tall ring and pinion trans. I run a 72 plate cooler under the car and doghouse cooler with an oil filter. The bus cruises 75mph all day long. It is a great combo. A 100 cam might have worked just as good. I run a colder plug and electronic ignition with a 40k coil. This keeps the heads cooler and the plugs from fouling. Kustom1warehouse.net wrote: tumadre776 wrote: I ordered one from kustom1 and all of the parts were wrong. I sent it back 2 weeks ago. and besides charging me a 20% restocking fee, they will not answer the phones or and still have not given me my money back.
So let me get this straight. You have a late model bus with a type 4 pancake motor (Most importantly you failed to mention this detail but I can see it in your profile picture). You went online to Kustom 1 and ordered a engine kit and you assumed this engine kit was going to fit your type 4 cc pancake motor. Yes, all the parts are wrong for a late model bus. Anyone with a minimal amount of VW knowledge knows that these two motors are completely different. You are so quick to bash Kustom 1 in the forum but conveniently omitted important details that keep you from looking stupid. You did not get charged any restock fee. Saying restocked you 20% is a lie. Yes, you ate the shipping cost. All parts were refunded except the shipping without a restock fee. ($553 on 12/10) I offered to get you type 4 parts and you said no. We are open 10-6 pst. which means you can’t call until 1pm est.
As for the rest of this blog about engine kits. So Cal customers are so spoiled. We have every machine shop and vw parts store at our disposal. Parts are cheaper and so is the machine work. Rebuilding a crank, rods and balancing can get expensive when you are out of California. Yes, it sounds great to get everything from the local machine shop but parts can cost up to double the price of a parts store or in kit form. Most of the other companies offering engine kits have china pistons and cast or china cranks. They say 100% new but don't disclose the origin or the quality of the parts. You may think you can reuse some old parts but for the most part, when you dismantle an old VW motor, the majority of parts need be replaced or rebuilt and machine work needs to be done. The reason main bearings are made optional is 50% of the people have not even taken the motor apart and do not know the line bore of the case. You can’t sell main bearings if the customer is guessing the size. If you do know the size of your line bore, the option for main bearings are listed in the engine kit. As for camshafts, Kustom 1 offers about 50 different grinds. From stock to wild. You just pick a camshaft after you are done with you engine kit. It’s not rocket science. I have a 71 camper bus. I built a with dual 40idfs, dms 69 crank, stock flywheel , 110 cam, balanced, full flowed, with a tall ring and pinion trans. I run a 72 plate cooler under the car and doghouse cooler with an oil filter. The bus cruises 75mph all day long. It is a great combo. A 100 cam might have worked just as good. I run a colder plug and electronic ignition with a 40k coil. This keeps the heads cooler and the plugs from fouling.
Always find it funny that there are always two sides to every story. The internet lets people fly off the handle without stating all the facts. Nice to see someone stick up for themselves. What a crazy business! Kustom1warehouse.net wrote: tumadre776 wrote: I ordered one from kustom1 and all of the parts were wrong. I sent it back 2 weeks ago. and besides charging me a 20% restocking fee, they will not answer the phones or and still have not given me my money back.
So let me get this straight. You have a late model bus with a type 4 pancake motor (Most importantly you failed to mention this detail but I can see it in your profile picture). You went online to Kustom 1 and ordered a engine kit and you assumed this engine kit was going to fit your type 4 cc pancake motor. Yes, all the parts are wrong for a late model bus. Anyone with a minimal amount of VW knowledge knows that these two motors are completely different. You are so quick to bash Kustom 1 in the forum but conveniently omitted important details that keep you from looking stupid. You did not get charged any restock fee. Saying restocked you 20% is a lie. Yes, you ate the shipping cost. All parts were refunded except the shipping without a restock fee. ($553 on 12/10) I offered to get you type 4 parts and you said no. We are open 10-6 pst. which means you can’t call until 1pm est.
As for the rest of this blog about engine kits. So Cal customers are so spoiled. We have every machine shop and vw parts store at our disposal. Parts are cheaper and so is the machine work. Rebuilding a crank, rods and balancing can get expensive when you are out of California. Yes, it sounds great to get everything from the local machine shop but parts can cost up to double the price of a parts store or in kit form. Most of the other companies offering engine kits have china pistons and cast or china cranks. They say 100% new but don't disclose the origin or the quality of the parts. You may think you can reuse some old parts but for the most part, when you dismantle an old VW motor, the majority of parts need be replaced or rebuilt and machine work needs to be done. The reason main bearings are made optional is 50% of the people have not even taken the motor apart and do not know the line bore of the case. You can’t sell main bearings if the customer is guessing the size. If you do know the size of your line bore, the option for main bearings are listed in the engine kit. As for camshafts, Kustom 1 offers about 50 different grinds. From stock to wild. You just pick a camshaft after you are done with you engine kit. It’s not rocket science. I have a 71 camper bus. I built a with dual 40idfs, dms 69 crank, stock flywheel , 110 cam, balanced, full flowed, with a tall ring and pinion trans. I run a 72 plate cooler under the car and doghouse cooler with an oil filter. The bus cruises 75mph all day long. It is a great combo. A 100 cam might have worked just as good. I run a colder plug and electronic ignition with a 40k coil. This keeps the heads cooler and the plugs from fouling.
welcome. Quite true about So Cal people are spoiled. We are in No Cal and have to drive 500 miles to get machine work done for a T4. So nice to see great replies on this thread. The last one was a few years ago, however I will ask my question anyway hoping for a great reply.
I have looked around and I am wanting a complete stock kit. I am rebuilding a Thing motor, I am wanting to keep it completely stock as I think I have matching numbers (not sure yet, don't have the birth certificate, but numbers are in range). So that said, if I am wanting to keep it all official VW, I need VW rebuild. The kit at Mid America is cheap, but I am sure its a china kit.
I am not looking for the advice to 'only buy what you need', I knew from the beginning that this project was going to cost, so its not an issue of that at all. I know I need to know my line bore and thrust bore, again not an issue.
I want to know a reputable source that I can get a complete kit, cylinders, pistons, crank, rods, everything, and know they are VW.
I can take this thing to shows and say "everything was rebuilt using VW" or at least German parts and feel good that I'm not lying.
I love this car as much as a family member.
Kustom 1, I would love to hear from you!
Thanks guys!! ElectricianMD wrote: So nice to see great replies on this thread. The last one was a few years ago, however I will ask my question anyway hoping for a great reply.
I have looked around and I am wanting a complete stock kit. I am rebuilding a Thing motor, I am wanting to keep it completely stock as I think I have matching numbers (not sure yet, don't have the birth certificate, but numbers are in range). So that said, if I am wanting to keep it all official VW, I need VW rebuild. The kit at Mid America is cheap, but I am sure its a china kit.
I am not looking for the advice to 'only buy what you need', I knew from the beginning that this project was going to cost, so its not an issue of that at all. I know I need to know my line bore and thrust bore, again not an issue.
I want to know a reputable source that I can get a complete kit, cylinders, pistons, crank, rods, everything, and know they are VW.
I can take this thing to shows and say "everything was rebuilt using VW" or at least German parts and feel good that I'm not lying.
I love this car as much as a family member.
Kustom 1, I would love to hear from you!
Thanks guys!!
Good luck. I'm doing the same thing right now, and it's NOT the kind of thing you can just order as a kit. www.aircooled.net has wonderful customer support, and they will be able to make a kit for you, but most of their parts are on the higher end of the aftermarket spectrum. Can't hurt to them.
I've found a few NOS goodies- crank, case, and bearings- at a old tyme-y shop that ONLY services ACVWs. These aren't parts that you can just click "buy now" online. :?
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