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i need some advice on building a jib crane | The Garage Journal

Author: Faunus

Jul. 14, 2025

9 0

i need some advice on building a jib crane | The Garage Journal

Hi guys, my shop wont lend itself well to a full on bridge crane so i have figured out i can build 2 jib crane style's and have about 75-85% of the shop covered. here are my specs, the upright is a upright used to support a overhead conveyer system and has a base plate about 24" square and a center square tube about 10"(havnt measured it lately) it is atleast 1/4 if not 3/16 thick, similar to the one in this picture

the picture makes it looks small but its rather large.

i want to use this and then an i beam on the top of it, but am having a hard time figuring out what to use to pivot the two, i have an engineer friend doing up the math to figure out what size beam to use in order to have -lbs on the end of it.

basically i need to figure out what my options are for a nice side loaded pivotable turntable of sorts.

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

i was thinking i could use a dana60 or 14b ff axle(1ton axle) and cut the pumpkin out and insert the hubs down into the square tube, with the top one sitting out and bolt the beam to that, this would give the equivelant of whatever weight the axle could carry on the truck normally.

or some sort of double v-bearing with a flat torrington style bearing that the beam sits on but the biggest torrington bearing i can find is 5.5"

another option would be to use some heavy duty excavator pins and sleeves that i can get from my dads work, and just have a little more harder time pivoting due to the friction.

Attachments

  • JIBCRANE1.jpg
ok guys, these are all good points, however i am not in over my head i have a full shop at my disposal with all necessary tools, and an engineer friend doing the numbers. it may not be feasible to get the 20ft span i would like but to build one is not over my head.

a forklift in my garage is like trying to drive a semitruck through a crowded walmart parking lot lol.

so the axle idea might not be strong enough(that tiping side load pressure poundage is what i had no idea how to calculate)

The upright is surely strong enough, as said in the first post the picture you see does not do it justice, along with the foot pad, the ocs this removed regularly held 5-8k # on one side of the beam(granted it was only about 8ft out) but no wobbling or flexing from that. the 4" concrete may not be enough, but i like the idea kbs mentioned, i have 4 of these uprights and could easily cut out a section of the concrete and use a post hole auguer and then weld one section onto the upright and pour fresh concrete in then install the beam with the bottom section going below the grade of concrete(that would give the resist to tip)

as for cutting and rewelding an axle the weld point would be supported fully down inside the square tube, so that essentially the upright is doing all the side load work(force) so i wouldnt be worried about it breaking. but its also just as easy to get a 3-4" tube and weld the hubs on to it then there would be no cutting/splicing.

i didnt really like the axle idea anyways but was more giving it for illistration purposes.

the other possiblity i have thought about is doing something like the portable gantry crane but having one end stationary. i could do like i was thinking and just add a leg that folds down when i get it into place, that way it does not have to have a clear floor space as a portable gantry crane would have to. that or attach the top of the upright to the wall of the garage.



this could be feasible.

also bigearl and ishiboo where do you get the math to determine how much torque on the pivot point is? I have installed dozens of these - you are in over your head on understanding what is needed to balance forces and keep things safe.

There are ways to do without needing a big brick of concrete & rebar but I am not going to engineer it over a forum.

I will second the forklift recommendation - way more flexible, way more lifting power, they really aren't that big (my 3k clark isn't much bigger than my riding mower.)

I have both a Jib and a forklift, rare is a day that I turn on the air to the hoist. Most of the time I just use the forklift because it will go anywhere in the shop and the jib only covers a 14' radius half moon. Having a large diameter base plate compensates a lot. If you work out the mechanics, a rough estimate for strength of the base plate anchors is b/x times the load you are trying to lift, where b is the length of the boom and x is the diameter of the baseplate. So if you have a 10 foot boom and a 2 foot baseplate and try to lift lbs, then you need anchors that can withstand lbs of pulling force. This is not an unreasonable load, especially if distributed over several anchors . One thing to consider, though, is the strength of the concrete.

I am not an engineer, and this post is not engineering advice, but OP says he has an engineer friend to check his design. In this case I see no reason why he must be "in over his head."
I have installed dozens of these - you are in over your head on understanding what is needed to balance forces and keep things safe.

There are ways to do without needing a big brick of concrete & rebar but I am not going to engineer it over a forum.

I will second the forklift recommendation - way more flexible, way more lifting power, they really aren't that big (my 3k clark isn't much bigger than my riding mower.)

I have both a Jib and a forklift, rare is a day that I turn on the air to the hoist. Most of the time I just use the forklift because it will go anywhere in the shop and the jib only covers a 14' radius half moon.

And you dont have any idea what my background is other than what i have told you on here. So to say i am over my head in undersfanding what the forces are that is needed and what to keep me safe is a gross ASSumption on your part. I did not ask for how to build one, i asked for advice on what to use for the pivot point. You can naysay all you want but end the end i will have 1 or more jib cranes in my shop that are between 15-20ft long and full safe upto and beyond the capacity i deem will suit my needs.

I will admit that when it comes to figuring out the math that is needed to do the calculations i dont know that stuff....thats what my engineer friend is for.

As for a forklift, i have my forklift trainer certification and am fully aware of there size. i have said and will say it again a forklift in my shop is not feasible.
I'm building a small jib crane but it will only be lifting things unter 200lbs. It's swing is only wide enough to go over my lathe and mill so help take off chucks and other heavy attachments... What do you need this to do? Pull engines? lift a push mower onto a cart?

Most of the stuff i will do will be less than #'s, more importantly for me is capability of covering my entire shop, or as much of it as possible.

I have all the stuff necessary to build a bridge crane but because of the way my shop is setup i would only be able to have half of it covered, i want more than half Based on the questions you are asking and proposals on how to build all indications are that you are in over your head. You are right I don't know your overall qualifications but your questions tell a lot about the background knowledge you have.

You can buy the parts for building this at grainger - but it still doesn't mean that you won't tear it off of a wall or overturn a mast.

A 20' jib for # takes a giant beam/truss just to handle the cantilever bending loads in the jib. Concentrating those loads onto the mast gets huge. Then the Anchor loads have to react 20,000ft-lb plus moment created by the jib arm (which is likely to be 10-15,000ft-lb) and dynamic effects.

Typical lifting equipment is designed around a 5:1 factor of safety to material yield.

Ask your engineer the questions and your fab ideas - he has to do the math based on the materials that you want to use.
Based on the questions you are asking and proposals on how to build all indications are that you are in over your head. You are right I don't know your overall qualifications but your questions tell a lot about the background knowledge you have.

You can buy the parts for building this at grainger - but it still doesn't mean that you won't tear it off of a wall or overturn a mast.

A 20' jib for # takes a giant beam/truss just to handle the cantilever bending loads in the jib. Concentrating those loads onto the mast gets huge. Then the Anchor loads have to react 20,000ft-lb plus moment created by the jib arm (which is likely to be 10-15,000ft-lb) and dynamic effects.

Typical lifting equipment is designed around a 5:1 factor of safety to material yield.

Ask your engineer the questions and your fab ideas - he has to do the math based on the materials that you want to use.

Because i ask what are my options for pivot points that means i am in over my head? Hmm so everyone who gets on here asking options for anything on here must be in over there head as well? i.e. "how do i install a garage door?". That must mean because they had to ask for tips and suggestions they are in over there head and better stop there.". This country was built by people who in your way of thinking were in over there head, they got together and figured it out, thats what its all about. People come on here to figure things out, in the course of this thread i have figured out the pivot point i plan on using, i have not shared it with you because i have not talked with my engineer friend,(i dont get much chance to talk to him but once a month or so) so figured in the interum i would ask questions on here.
Having a large diameter base plate compensates a lot. If you work out the mechanics, a rough estimate for strength of the base plate anchors is b/x times the load you are trying to lift, where b is the length of the boom and x is the diameter of the baseplate. So if you have a 10 foot boom and a 2 foot baseplate and try to lift lbs, then you need anchors that can withstand lbs of pulling force. This is not an unreasonable load, especially if distributed over several anchors . One thing to consider, though, is the strength of the concrete.

I am not an engineer, and this post is not engineering advice, but OP says he has an engineer friend to check his design. In this case I see no reason why he must be "in over his head."

Thank you. This was a productive post and i have gleaned a better understanding from it.

My concrete strenth is psi 4" thick.
Having a large diameter base plate compensates a lot. If you work out the mechanics, a rough estimate for strength of the base plate anchors is b/x times the load you are trying to lift, where b is the length of the boom and x is the diameter of the baseplate. So if you have a 10 foot boom and a 2 foot baseplate and try to lift lbs, then you need anchors that can withstand lbs of pulling force. This is not an unreasonable load, especially if distributed over several anchors . One thing to consider, though, is the strength of the concrete.

I am not an engineer, and this post is not engineering advice, but OP says he has an engineer friend to check his design. In this case I see no reason why he must be "in over his head."

Thank you. This was a productive post and i have gleaned a better understanding from it.

My concrete strenth is psi 4" thick.
i found a very similar jib crane on my local c/l and the thing is massive for only 2k lbs.

There's a reason for that, as kwb described. You really are about one full magnitude off of what is required to make this work. Pickup axles, back of the envelope calculations and 4" slabs aren't going to cut it here.

The standard foundation for a Gorbel 2,000lb self-supported jib crane with a 20' radius is four feet deep by seven feet square. Roughly a truck load of concrete. If you bolt a crane of that size down to your 4" floor you'll rip a hole in it and drop a couple tons of steel on your head!

https://www.gorbel.com/resources/products/jibcranes/ibeam/documents/FS-Jib.PDF

I suggest if you really want a free-standing jib crane you go buy one. Regardless of whether you're capable of engineering and building an adequate solution or not, jib cranes are so damned cheap on CL and Ebay there really is no point in trying to build one. Get the installation manual for the crane and follow it. Problem solved!

There's a reason for that, as kwb described. You really are about one full magnitude off of what is required to make this work. Pickup axles, back of the envelope calculations and 4" slabs aren't going to cut it here.

The standard foundation for a Gorbel 2,000lb self-supported jib crane with a 20' radius is four feet deep by seven feet square. Roughly a truck load of concrete. If you bolt a crane of that size down to your 4" floor you'll rip a hole in it and drop a couple tons of steel on your head!

https://www.gorbel.com/resources/products/jibcranes/ibeam/documents/FS-Jib.PDF

I suggest if you really want a free-standing jib crane you go buy one. Regardless of whether you're capable of engineering and building an adequate solution or not, jib cranes are so damned cheap on CL and Ebay there really is no point in trying to build one. Get the installation manual for the crane and follow it. Problem solved!


While yes i do believe that the gorbel style you are talking about is rather over sized, it is also built for production lifting capabilities where it will be used in a shop and lifting things all day long all week long. As for back of the napkin truck axles etc big whoop i was brainstorming its not built yet. Just throwing out ideas.

As for buying a prebuilt one that suits my needs is not out of the question. Just have not found one that does yet. This may help you. Look at Spanco's wall mounted jib crane. Also the parts manual will give you a good idea on how they provide for the pivoting action. This type of assembly may able to mount to your post/column.

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=e382c1be-ffec-4c1a-a606-934b9ff7a590

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=51cb23cf-bbca-48db-8ee3-b6acf31

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=4e592e24--4c07--20ac5b8ac555

For what it's worth if your engineer friend is only looking at the size of the outrigger beam then that is essentially the easiest part of the job and not good enough. The devil will be in the rest of the details/assembly and of course the required foundation that typically needs a factor of safety of 1.5 against overturning which others have already mentioned.

The Spanco .pdf's will probably get you and your engineer friend down the right path though.

Good luck
This may help you. Look at Spanco's wall mounted jib crane. Also the parts manual will give you a good idea on how they provide for the pivoting action. This type of assembly may able to mount to your post/column.

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=e382c1be-ffec-4c1a-a606-934b9ff7a590

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=51cb23cf-bbca-48db-8ee3-b6acf31

http://www.spanco.com/cm/streamfile.aspx?id=4e592e24--4c07--20ac5b8ac555

For what it's worth if your engineer friend is only looking at the size of the outrigger beam then that is essentially the easiest part of the job and not good enough. The devil will be in the rest of the details/assembly and of course the required foundation that typically needs a factor of safety of 1.5 against overturning which others have already mentioned.

The Spanco .pdf's will probably get you and your engineer friend down the right path though.

Good luck

Thanks for those links, i will examine tonight at work. My engineering buddy is helping me with the whole thing, not just the boom requirement. Basically once i have the size of beam i need then i can start working out the drawing that will work in my garage then we will sit down and figure it all out.

It may be that my columns are not going to work etc im ok with it not working out and having to buy one or figure out some other way.
I used a lb load rated one at a former job 8 inch schedule 80 rise pipe bolted to the baseplate with 10 one inch grade 8 bolts welded to rebar put down in 4 ft X 2 ft pad in the floor the jib its self was 10 ft out into the shop BUT it also had 2 anchor cables run from the top out through the wall out side at a 45 deg spread buried in 3 yards of concrete 6 feet deep we over loaded that thing on a daily basis for years and it never failed.

Any idea how big the baseplate was?

Are you saying the tie cables angled down into the ground on the outside of the shop? I could feasibly do something like that
If you don't need to swing the beam with the load on it, just run the trolley back and forth, you could add a hinged leg to the end of the beam to help support the load at the end. That would decrease the load on the pivot the times you have to pick a heavy load.You could even add a wheel if you need to move it. The leg could be hinged out of the way when lifting lighter loads.

That was a thought i was thinking about a few posts ago and then got sidetracked.

The heavy loads i would be lifting would only be stationary up and down to load on a trailer or the likes. Little loads like an engine block or head removal etc would be better off pivoted.

Thanks for the reminder lol, definately going to look into doing it that way more

Portable Jib Crane (PJC) | APE - American Precision Engineering

The final design allows for 360-degree rotation of the main boom and 320 degrees of rotation of the secondary boom, making the crane compact, fast, and easy to use within a 20-foot diameter circle. Operating with air-powered hoists and swing brakes, the crane requires only compressed shop air. A built-in hose reel enables quick and easy positioning anywhere in the shop, including outside or in wet conditions.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit our website.

One unique feature of the portable jib crane is the splice in the main support post, allowing it to be disassembled for shipment inside a standard shipping container. This feature also simplifies the manufacturing process by enabling the main boom assembly to be built on a bench rather than 10 feet in the air.

Fabricating the portable jib crane involved a range of operations, including small part machining, large diameter lathe turning, press brake forming, and critical welding. Careful analysis of the work sequence and manufacturing tolerances was essential to ensure proper functionality after assembly. Our Design-Thru-Fab methodology incorporates features that aid in the fabrication process, such as tab and slot sheet metal features, Cleco alignment holes, and indexing features for forming sheet metal components.

With competitive price and timely delivery, Hebei pillar hoisting machinery sincerely hope to be your supplier and partner.

After fabrication, we conducted a series of load tests across the full range of the crane to proof test both structural and tipping capacity.

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