Types of automotive water pumps - Industrias Dolz

The automotive water pump is a simple centrifugal pump that is driven by a belt connected to the engine’s crankshaft. The pump circulates the fluid when the engine is running. The water pump is vital to the operation of a car engine as it ensures that coolant flows through the cylinder head, radiator, hoses, and cylinder block and maintains the optimum automotive operating temperature; it is usually driven by a belt from a crankshaft pulley or sprocket.

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An automotive water pump uses centrifugal force and impeller blades to move coolant through the various hoses and channels that make up the cooling system. After the coolant flows around the engine, usually at the front of the car, it is hosed to the radiator, where the hot coolant is cooled by air movement along with the radiator fins. It then leaves the radiator and returns to the water pump, where the process starts over.

Different types of automotive water pumps

In order to gain a comprehensive understanding of water pumps, it is crucial to familiarize ourselves with the various types that exist. Distinguishing between different types is essential as it allows us to recognize the specific adaptations made for trucks/industrial vehicles and passenger cars. Each category caters to the unique requirements of these vehicles. However, water pumps can be further categorized based on their design and functionality. Let’s explore these categories in more detail:

Mechanical water pumps

In mechanical water pumps, the coolant absorbs heat from the engine block and cylinder head and releases it to the ambient air through the radiator. Depending on the type of construction, mechanical water pumps can be seated in the pump housing itself on the outside of the engine, or they can be seated directly on the engine block. Generally, mechanical water pumps are driven by V-belts, timing belts, or directly from the engine.

Related content: What is the difference between electric and mechanical water pumps?

Variable water pumps

The main peculiarity of variable water pumps is that they allow the flow rate to be varied depending on the needs of the engine, this is done through a vacuum process. That is, the water pump acts on the cooling system only when necessary. In this way, it helps to increase the efficiency of the engine, which translates into lower fuel consumption and, therefore, a significant reduction in pollutant emissions into the atmosphere.

Electric water pumps

Electric water pumps help reduce emissions from modern engines. A supply flow independent of the number of revolutions of the motor enables cooling according to needs. This reduces the power required and therefore reduces friction losses, fuel consumption and emissions of pollutants.

Auxiliary water pumps

The main function of the auxiliary water pumps is to support the main water pump. However, the auxiliary water pump is more focused on comfort, since it is located in a by-pass hose of the main cooling system, and drives the coolant to the heater inside the car.

Some vehicles may have more than one auxiliary pump, depending on the complexity of the cooling system.

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These auxiliary water pumps are also used in hybrid and electric vehicles in order to bring coolant to all corners of the system, since the batteries are also cooled, as are the electric motors.

If you are interested in this type of water pump, we recommend you read:

• Peculiarities of an auxiliary water pump

• Auxiliary Electric Water Pumps – Range Extension

• Industrias Dolz launches its new range of auxiliary electric water pumps

• When and how to install an auxiliary electric water pump

Electric or mechanical water pump? Which is the best?

Each water pump has its own advantages; compared with the mechanical water pump, the speed of the electric water pump is independent of the motor speed and can operate flexibly according to the actual cooling demand of the motor. Thus, heat transfer and mechanical losses are reduced; thus, fuel consumption is reduced, and efficiency is increased.

The electric water pump has good corrosion resistance and high-temperature resistance. The electric water pump provides high efficiency, precise control, timely and appropriate cooling capacity, the low power consumption of the coolant flow based on the water temperature and other information, shortens the coolant flow distance, and reduces the displacement of the water pump about 60%.

Reducing friction, the electric water pump is driven by electricity, compared with a mechanical water pump using an auxiliary belt drive, the friction work is reduced.
An electric water pump, in contrast, allows the manufacturer to set (with much greater precision) how much coolant flows through the engine at specified temperature ranges. So it’s actually more efficient and more tailored to your engine’s specific cooling needs.

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Dolz, manufacturer of different types of water pumps

If you have a cooling problem from too much HP, reverse cooling with an engine driven pump will help you. An improved from stock higher volume engine driven water pump should keep any streetable engine cool with the proper radiator. Electric cooling fans will save more HP than the water pump. Electric water pumps look cool, but then you need a bigger alternator to supply the juice, and they're darn heavy. Spend the same amount of money on head porting and you'll get more HP. You say you've got ported heads? Spend more money on porting. There's a reason some NASCAR Chebbies are faster, even though "they're all alike". Welcome to the asylumm. I have dynoed an engine with both an electric and pulley driven pump, and the difference in that case was considerable. The pulleys were factory "overdriven" pump. Anyway, here are the differences, the engine was a pump gas "451" with Stage VI heads making 649 peak hp and 612 ft-lb of tq.
rpm , electri hp, pulley pump hp
, 290, 299
, 337, 346
, 400, 389
, 444, 430
, 476, 466
, 520, 502
, 560, 535
, 593, 570
, 619, 596
, 637, 612
, 649, 625
, 641, 629
, 622, 614

The rune up was the same, but the intake and heads were "hotter" in the pulley pump runs, and that must affect teh results some.

The "electric pump" was just a moroso motor that run the stock pump with a pulley. It wasn't able to handle appropriate cooling during the dyno pull, and that's why we changed to the factory set up. Later I have dynoed engines with a Meziere nad a Moroso pump that oges in to the stock housing; hte moroso was right on edge of being a good pump and the Meziere handled the job just fine in the dyno. Both have been streetdriven without overheating problems. Currently we are using a Davies Craig pump, which is the best I have used. It's a temp sensing variable speed external pump, and by building my own "water manifolds" I now have way more room in frrnt of the engine than with any other set up. And even on the hottest days here it isn't even close to overheating, the pump gets about 9 volts of current. I hjave run this set up for about five years now. I'm just in the process of reversing the cooling and putting extra lines in between the center exhaust ports to keep them a little cooler. Here with the front of the engine revealed you can see the manifolding, hoses and even the pump, it's "floating" in the lower rad hose and weighs only a couple of lbs. http://www.kuvia.1g.fi/kuvat/Tapahtu..._31_08_962.jpg And here is a link to the pump: http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47 We have the smaller one, and although the advertised rate is pretty low, some 20 + gph, in reality it pumps noticably more water than the meziere. I have a Meziere on my 496 (600 hp) Cuda I use on the street. So far, works fine. The cheapy $189 electric from summit did not work good. On average, I've heard 3 to 5 hp savings. But I suspect at rpm its much more. Maybe 10 to 15 from what I've heard. They only draw about 10 amps, so you dont need an alternator upgrade. If you are a hotrodder, and like to go fast, then do whatever you can to make more horsepower (within your budget). I now have an aluminum radiator, electric fan, and electric water pump. Just the pump and fan are probably saving me 20 hp on average I would guess. The really good thing about an electric pump, is that when you are stuck in traffic, and sitting there idling, you have max cooling flow!!! That is a good deal in my opinion!!!! ok i'm lost on this because if your loosing that much hp i would think the pulley is way to big and the water is going threw the rad faster than it can cool it .that could be the problem with the electric pumps too but then you could use 2 fans different thermastats, change pulley sizes different types of coolent ,2,3,or4 core radiators alluminum or what ever i'm glad dartgt66 has had good luck with them.some say reverse flow i can agree it will slow it down giving it a chance to cool or speed it up to pull it out the block faster the thing is that when you rev the motor the belt turns faster but the electric don't.is that good or bad?the way i see it is if its not broke why fix it. I didn't have any other set ups to try in the dyno and didn't really try to analyze it any furhter, so the results were just an observation of what happened in our case. But if you think about it, a regular pulley pump turns rpm related to engine rpm, and not related to any kind of engine load. So, basically it always runs at "full steam", ready to cool down even the highest heat loads. That is wasted energy. Now, a regular electric pump runs always at it's biggest capacity. That's kind of waste too, kind of like you had a transmission in the pulley drive that would retain the pump rpm always at ? The EWP variable speed system lives according to the needs of the engine, sensing the water temp and changingn the pump rpm as needed. I have tried quite a lot of different things in engines, most fo them really hasn't been much of a help except for the sellers bank account, but this set up is one that in my opinion is really worthwhile.

The turbos in pics are Garret, GT42 series exhaust side with TO4 housings and regular garrett on the compressor side. They are perhaps a bit smallish for huge power needs, but work pretty well as a package. We haven't done much engine or chassis tuning yet, but the boost comes up pretty quickly and it's very competitive in the street races run with a pro tree. We are running pump gas and DOT tires, and the car is a C-body '67 Plymouth VIP, so neither the weight nor the aerodynamics are really quite top notch. It's backhalved with a fouor link, but tje front suspension and steering are stock. The car is currently a national record holder in our street D class with a 8.13/171 mph. It could handle a better launch, and the speed is currently limited by rpm because the front tires are only good for 170 mph. http://www.kuvia.1g.fi/kuvat/Tapahtu...31_08_.jpg