Creating a Mosaic on Mesh - A Step-by-Step Guide

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My Unswept Floor mosaic. Photo and mosaic: Helen Miles Mosaics

How to Create a Mosaic on Mesh Using the Direct Method - Part I

Let’s be honest; I am currently experiencing an obsession with mesh. I can’t seem to get enough of it! Creating a mosaic on mesh is incredibly easy, convenient, and versatile. The finished piece can be effortlessly lifted from its base, is lightweight, and is a breeze to transport. The 'unswept floor' mosaic shown above is my latest addition to my collection of mesh mosaics, reflecting my newfound passion for this technique.

Above is a completed example—see how lightweight and portable it is?

One of the most appealing aspects of making a mosaic on mesh is the freedom to shape it however you desire. What more could you ask for? Nothing—so let’s dive into the process!

Supplies Needed:

Here’s what you’ll need to get started:

• Your design, clearly outlined with a black marker to ensure it stands out beneath the mesh.
• A sturdy backing board.
• Tape for securing your design.
• Cling film to protect your design from glue.
• Mesh, which can be obtained from any mosaic supply store. I prefer the Mosaic Workshop.
• Glue—my favorite is Atlacoll 37, which I buy in Greece for ceramic tiles. The Mosaic Workshop in London offers Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, suitable for this purpose.
• A Stanley knife for cutting the mesh.

Steps to Create Your Mosaic on Mesh:

1. Place your design on the backing board and tape it down securely at the corners.
2. Cover your design with a layer of cling film to prevent the mesh from sticking to the paper. Secure the cling film with tape as well.
3. Position the mesh on top and ensure it is firmly secured around the edges.
4. Arrange your tesserae as usual. For detailed guidance on laying a direct method mosaic, visit my post here.

TOP TIP: Apply only as much glue as needed to attach each individual tessera to the mesh—avoid excess, as this can seep into the spaces between and obstruct grout filling. This detail is crucial!

5. Allow the glue to fully dry before carefully cutting around the mosaic with your Stanley knife.
6. Flip the mosaic over and carefully peel off the cling film.
7. Grout the mosaic as per usual. (Refer to my grouting post here). Once dried, you’ll have a lightweight, 'cut-out' mosaic ready to adhere to any clean, flat surface.

A Note of Caution

I experimented with pre-grouting mosaics on mesh after reading Elaine Goodwin’s book, Classic Mosaic. The book features an image of a courtyard with mosaicked birds perched above a bird table. It seemed beneficial to grout in advance, reducing the mess and hassle of site grouting, especially for smaller mosaics.

However, the drawback is significant: pre-grouted mosaics are quite fragile. I do not recommend selecting shapes or designs with intricate or thin features. I created a bird following Goodwin’s design, but it cracked at the tail post-grouting. A dab of super glue resolved the issue, but I’ll steer clear of pre-grouting in the future.

Moreover, this technique is best suited for smaller mosaics. The mosaic below, measuring 32cm x 23cm, will need to be grouted after it's been attached to a wall using tile adhesive.

To explore Making Mosaics on Mesh, Part II, which covers larger mosaics, follow this link: here.

For additional mosaic tutorials, visit my series on making a Mosaic Trivet.

Mosaic Tutorial | Utilizing Self-Adhesive Fiberglass Mesh

How to Utilize Self-Adhesive Fiberglass Mesh

Recently, I experimented with QuikStik Mosaic Mesh, which features adhesive on one side. I was eager to see if it could replace the traditional mesh I had been using that lacked adhesive, as this required an individual application of glue on each piece. Additionally, I wanted to determine if the adhesive was robust enough to secure my tiles during vertical installation.

Upon receiving my shipment, I excitedly unwrapped the mesh and found it indeed had a sticky side! I conducted a small "mesh test," cutting a piece and applying various sizes of tiles, glass, kismet, and ceramics to the sticky side, pressing down firmly. To my delight, it held up perfectly when lifted and even endured some gentle shaking! However, larger, rounded stones didn’t adhere well. Now, I have a clearer idea of which tesserae are compatible with this mesh.

Three Simple Steps to Set Up Your Adhesive Fiberglass Mesh:

1. Step 1: Print your pattern to full size and tape it to a clean workspace where you can work over time.
2. Step 2: Cut the fiberglass mesh and position it over your pattern, ensuring the sticky side is facing up. You may want to tape it down for stability.
3. Step 3: Begin laying your tiles onto the mesh and press firmly. Once done, trim any excess mesh, and you’ll be ready to apply it to your base (or substrate) that already has adhesive on it.

It’s that easy! Utilize it for projects you wish to create in a horizontal format, for assembling smaller components of a larger mural, or wrapping around 3-D sculptures before applying thinset and placing your tiles—there are endless creative possibilities!

What do you gain from using this innovative mesh? You save time and money! With reduced thinset usage, you can allocate your funds towards new tools or tesserae for your mosaic projects. So, head out and start creating!

If you wish to discover more, check out our Waterproof PVC Coated Tarpaulin.